ñokis

"Why don't you pick on someone your own size...like me?"
-Ickis, performing a loom.

Ickis is the main protagonist/anti-hero of Aaahh!!! Real Monsters, changing roles with Oblina. His method of scaring humans's the ability to grow bigger. However, due to Ickis's large ears, he's confused with a bunny often. Also, Ickis has feet in the shape of an elf's shoe. Also, Ickis tends to be on the nervous side and he has a lack of self-confidence, partly from trying to live up to the legacy of his father, Slickis, who was the Monster Academy's most renowned student often. Ickis is room-mates with Oblina and Krumm, and also he's best friends with them. He goes to the Monster Academy along with many other monsters.

Throughout the show, Ickis searches for his identity with the aid of his brainy friend Oblina and his shy roommate Krumm. His eagerness to please others and tendency to test his boundaries sometimes get him into trouble. The worst thing about being a monster that might be considered "cute" by humans is that it comes as a disadvantage when you're trying to scare people! Ickis knows this all too well, but he's been working on perfecting his scare strategies even before he began attending the Gromble's school. Ickis has big shoes to fill, as his dad Slickis's a legendary monster who's famous for his scares. This definitely puts the pressure on Ickis, but his best friends Krumm and Oblina always help him get out of the many jams he gets himself into.

He's Constantly nervous and a little too cute for his own good (the rabbit ears don't help), Ickis has a lot to overcome before he can graduate from the Monster Academy. He's always losing his Monster Manual and getting in over his head (which isn't too hard since he's on the short side), and he's anything but the teacher's pet. Luckily, he has good friends like Krumm and Oblina to turn to. Ickis also has the ability to transform into one of the most terrifying monsters of all when it matters most, so never count him out.

Ickis‘ body is mostly purple. His eyes are yellow and his lips are lavender. He has two big rabbit-like ears, has two arms and two short legs with feet that resemble jester/elf shoes.

His eyes becomes red and his teeth turn sharp when he scares sometimes. It can also be assumed that Ickis's fuzzy in texture and appearance due to the description Krumm gives himself as "Krickis" in Episode 15. (Season 1, Episode 8b)

Ickis has appeared in every episode of Aaahh!!! Real Monsters. His first appearance was in The Switching Hour. His last was in Ghost Story on Rugrats.

Letter A with overring

The letter A (a in lower case) represents various (although often very similar) sounds in several languages. It is a separate letter in Danish, Swedish, Norwegian, Finnish, North Frisian, Low Saxon, Walloon, Chamorro, Lule Sami, Pite Sami, Skolt Sami, Southern Sami, Ume Sami, and Greenlandic alphabets. Additionally, it is part of the alphabets used for some Alemannic and Austro-Bavarian dialects of German.^{[citation needed]}

Though A is derived from A by adding an overring, it is considered a separate letter. It developed as a form of semi-ligature of an A with a smaller o above it to denote a long and darker A, a process similar to how the umlaut mark developed from a small e written above certain letters.

The A-sound originally had the same origin as the long /aː/ sound in German Aal and Haar (Scandinavian al, har, English eel, hair).

Historically, the a derives from the Old Norse long /aː/ vowel (spelled with the letter a), but over time, it developed to an [ɔː] sound in most Scandinavian language varieties (in Swedish and Norwegian, it has eventually reached the pronunciation [oː]). Medieval writing often used doubled letters for long vowels, and the vowel continued to be written Aa.

In Old Swedish the use of the ligature AE and of O (originally also a variant of the ligature OE) that represented the sounds [ae] and [o] respectively were gradually replaced by new letters. Instead of using ligatures, a minuscule (that is, lower-case) E was placed above the letters A and O to create new graphemes. They later evolved into the modern letters A and O, where the E was simplified into the two dots now referred to as umlaut. A similar process was used to construct a new grapheme where an "aa" had previously been used. A minuscule O was placed on top of an A to create a new letter. It was first used in print in the Gustav Vasa Bible that was published in 1541 and replaced Aa in the 16th century.^[1]

In an attempt to modernize the orthography, linguists tried to introduce the A to Danish and Norwegian writing in the 19th century. Most people felt no need for the new letter, although the letter group Aa had already been pronounced like A for centuries in Denmark and Norway. Aa was usually treated as a single letter, spoken like the present A when spelling out names or words. Orthography reforms making A official were carried out in Norway in 1917 and in Denmark in 1948. According to Jorgen Norby Jensen, senior consultant at Dansk Sprognaevn, the cause for the change in Denmark was a combination of anti-German and pro-Nordic sentiment.^[2] Danish had been the only language apart from German and Luxembourgish to use capitalized nouns in the last decades, but abolished them at the same occasion.

In a few names of Danish cities or towns, the old spelling has been retained as an option due to local resistance, e.g. Aalborg and Aabenraa; however, Alborg and Abenra are the spellings recommended by the Danish Language Board.^[3] Between 1948 and 2010, the city of Aarhus was officially spelled Arhus. However, the city has changed to the Aa spelling starting 2011, in a controversial decision citing internationalization and web compatibility advantages.

Icelandic and Faroese are the only North Germanic languages not to use the a. The Old Norse letter a is retained, but the sound it now expresses is a diphthong, pronounced [au] in Icelandic and [ɔa] in Faroese. The short variation of Faroese a is pronounced [ɔ], though.

In some place names, the old Aa spelling dominates, more often in Denmark than in Norway (where it has been abolished in official use since 1917). Locals of Aalborg and Aabenraa resist the A, whereas Alesund is rarely seen with Aa spelling. Official rules allow both forms in the most common cases, but A is always correct. A as a word means "small river" in Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian and can be found in place names.

Before 1917, when spelling with the double A was common, some Norwegian place names contained three or four consecutive A letters: for instance Haaa (now Haa, a river) and Blaaaasen (Blaasen, 'the blue ("bla") ridge ("as")').

In family names, the bearer of the name uses Aa or A according to their choice, but since family names are inherited they are resistant to change and the traditional Aa style is often kept. For instance, the last name Aagaard is much more common than Agard. The surname Aa is always spelled with double A, never with the single a. However, given names - which are less commonly inherited - have largely changed to the use of the A. For instance, in Norway more than 12,000 male citizens spell their name Hakon, while only around 2,500 are named Haakon.

Company names are sometimes spelled with the double A by choice, usually in order to convey an impression of old-fashionedness or traditionality. The double A, representing a single sound, is usually kept in initials e.g. for people whose first, middle, and/or last name begins with the double A. Accordingly, a man named "Hans Aagard Hauge" would spell his initials "H. Aa. H." (not "H. A. H." nor "H. A. H."), while a woman named Aase Vestergaard would spell her initials "Aa. V." (not "A. V." nor "A. V.").

Correct alphabetization in Danish and Norwegian places A as the last letter in the alphabet, the sequence being AE, O, A. This is also true for the alternative spelling "Aa". Unless manually corrected, sorting algorithms of programs localised for Danish or Norwegian will place e.g., Aaron after Zorro.

In Danish the correct sorting of aa depends on pronunciation: If the sound is pronounced as one sound it is sorted as A regardless of the sound is 'a' or 'a'; thus, for example, the German city Aachen is listed under A, as well as the Danish city Aabenraa. (This is §3 in the Danish Retskrivningsreglerne.)

In the Swedish and Finnish alphabets, A is sorted after Z, as the third letter from the end, the sequence being A, A, O. This is easiest to remember across the Nordic languages, that Danish and Norwegian follow Z first with E-mutated letters AE and O and then the symbol with a one-stroke diacritic A. Swedish and Finnish follow Z with a one-stroke diacritic A and then a two-stroke (or two-dot) diacritic A, O. A combined Nordic sorting mnemonic is AE, O, A, A, O.

Alternative spellings of the Scandinavian A have become a concern because of globalization, and particularly because of the popularization of the World Wide Web. This is to a large extent due to the fact that prior to the creation of IDNA system around 2005, internet domains containing Scandinavian letters were not recognized by the DNS system, and anyway do not feature on keyboards adapted for other languages. While it is recommended to keep the A intact wherever possible, the next best thing is to use the older, double A spelling (e.g. "www.raade.com" instead of "www.rade.com"). This is because, as previously discussed, the A/Aa indicates a separate sound. If the A is represented as a common A without the overring (e.g. "www.rade.com") there is no indication that the A is supposed to represent another sound entirely. Even so, representing the A as just an A is particularly common in Sweden, as compared to Norway and Denmark, because the spelling Aa has no traditional use there.

Because the Finnish alphabet is derived from the Swedish alphabet, A is carried over, but it has no native Finnish use and is treated as in Swedish. Its usage is limited to loanwords and names of Swedish, Danish or Norwegian origin. In Finland there are many Swedish-speaking as well as many Finnish-speaking people with Swedish surnames, and many Swedish surnames include A. In addition, there are many geographical places in the Finnish coastal areas that have a in their Swedish names, such as Krako and Langnas. The Finnish name for A is ruotsalainen O ("Swedish O"), and is pronounced identically to O, which has the value [o̞].

It is not advised to substitute aa for a in Finnish, as aa is already a common letter combination with the value [aː].

In Emilian-Romagnol, a is used to represent the open-mid back unrounded vowel [ʌ], e.g. Modenese dialect amm, danna [ˈʌmː], [ˈdʌnːa] "man, woman";

e.g. Bolognese dialect Bulaggna, dapp [buˈlʌɲːa] [ˈdʌpː] "Bologna, later".

A was introduced to some eastern local variants of Walloon at the beginning of the 16th century and initially noted the same sound as in Danish. Its use quickly spread to all eastern dialects, but the cultural influence Liege and covered three sounds, a long open o, a long close o or a long a, depending on the local varieties. The use of a single a letter to cover such pronunciations has been embraced by the new pan-Walloon orthography, with one orthography for words regardless of the local phonetic variations. The Walloon use of A became the most popular use outside a Scandinavian language, even being used in the International Phonetic Alphabet drafted by Otto Jespersen.

In standardized writings outside the Liege area, words containing a are written with uh, a or o. For example, the word majhon (house), in the standardized orthography is spelled mojo, mahon, mohone, maujon in dialectal writings.

The Istro-Romanian alphabet is based on the standard Romanian alphabet with three additional letters used to mark sounds specific only to this language: a, l and n.

A and a are also used in the practical orthography of Chamorro, a language indigenous to the people of Northern Mariana Islands and Guam. The Chamorro name for Guam is Guahan, and its capital is called Hagatna.

In Greenlandic, a is not used in native words, but is used in several loanwords from Danish, such as bandoptageri (Danish bandoptager) 'tape recorder'. Like in Danish, a is sorted last in the alphabet.

The letter "A" (U+00C5) is also used throughout the world as the international symbol for the non-SI unit angstrom, a physical unit of length named after the Swedish physicist Anders Jonas Angstrom. It is always upper case in this context (symbols for units named after persons are generally upper-case). The angstrom is a unit of length equal to 10−10 m (one ten-billionth of a meter) or 0.1 nm.

Unicode also has encoded U+212B Å ANGSTROM SIGN. However, that is canonically equivalent to the ordinary letter A. The duplicate encoding at U+212B is due to round-trip mapping compatibility with an East-Asian character encoding, but is otherwise not to be used.^[4]

The logo of the Major League Baseball team known as the Los Angeles Angels is a capital "A" with a halo. Due to the resemblance, some Angels fans stylize the name as "Angels".

The logo of the Stargate series similarly features a stylized A with a circle above it, making it resemble an A as in Stargate; in Norwegian, gate means "riddle".

Cirque du Soleil's Kooza production uses this character in its logo, although it is pronounced by the main singer as a regular "a".

British producer and singer Lapsley uses it in her stage name.

This page is mostly complete, consider joining as an editor to help finish it up. Please update this character's roadmap page when one of the editing goals have been reached. When no main goals are left, please remove this section from this page.

F-Hime Match Video Database
Eve's F-Hime Combo & Okizeme Compilation Translated

A monster of a character in neutral, F-Hime has incredible movement backed by an almost full-screen threat range that becomes truly full-screen when she has meter. She can transition smoothly from zoning to footsies to rushdown and adapt whatever playstyle is best-suited to shutting down her opponent, and she has the ability to not just seal the enemy meter for up to ten seconds but can reduce it to zero if they’re not half-moon.

While she’s dominant at neutral and strong on offense, she’s extremely lacking on defense, having both a very low HP pool and the worst pokes in the game up close, and she can’t jump away in the same way everyone else can due to her floaty jump. Still, her strong DP and godlike shield counter means the opponent can’t get too comfortable when pressuring her.

God-tier character.

Your most basic goal is to work yourself into a range where you can confirm hits into combos and your opponent cannot; most of the time, this is the edge of 2C range. Because your effective range is most likely greater than theirs, characters in general want to get in on you more than you want to get in on them, and you have a lot of ways to shut this down; 2C and 5B are great against people directly moving towards you from the ground, and between 236X, 623X, and 5B, you have plenty of anti-airs vs people who want to come at you from above. If you aren’t confident about catching something, your backwalk will get you out of range of a lot of things and let you counterpoke, and people dashing in will often run headfirst into your DP, especially if they don’t have a good dashblock. If they’re committing to not getting hit, and especially if they’re trying to bait 236B to get in since it’s so minus, you can use their hesitance to dash in yourself and move directly into pressure.

But while Hime definitely has more to work with on the ground than in the air, it’s important not to play too linearly, and moving into the air in neutral is good too. Any time you can safely flight, either after threatening with j.6B or j.236A or just when they aren’t close, you gain a lot of options to work with; the ability to shimmy in the air is something a lot of people have difficulty dealing with, and people chasing a back drift can be caught off guard by you moving to a forward j.AB or by a sudden fastfall. Or if you’re particularly high, you can play the same “hey, see if you can get in on me” game from a different angle by making use of pillar and slight movements. Your horizontal speed never goes down after you airdash, so if you need a safe way down you can use it, and the back of j.C will catch people chasing you out of that. Fastfalling or suddenly dropping with a downward-drifting normal will also get you back into an advantageous spot if they aren’t prepared.

Some people really just don’t want to deal with you, though, whether because they’re more dedicated zoners with higher ranger to work or simply because they got a life lead and would rather run the timer than risk dealing with your neutral prowess. At those times, you need ways to force the situation - and that’s something Hime’s quite good at. 22A/22B gain you meter just for using them, and they give you coverage to dash in. 22A is better if they stay and block it, but 22B can throw people off who want to jump over 22A. People who aren’t approaching are also at the mercy of the full range of j.6[B], and j.236B can add some pretty alright chip damage or force awkward situations. And of course, anyone content to just hang back and throw projectiles must be worried about j.236C giving you a knockdown. Or if they don’t have a full-screen presence, you can make them come to you by charging your meter - letting you initiative heat will go a long way towards erasing a life deficit, or getting close to max and using 22C will definitely put them where you want them, and they probably would rather stop you from doing that, even if it means charging into F-Hime - but letting go of meter charge takes 8 frames before you can act, and that into 236B is 18, which with the fairly ambiguous charge end animation is not something they’ll be reacting to. Minimum meter charge duration is 29 frames, with one more before you can take an action other than block, which is not something most characters can react to and punish if you just want to tap it to make them flinch.

When you do have the opponent blocking, you do have quite a few options for ways to keep the pressure going. All of your normals are pretty confirmable, there’s no real point when the opponent can get hit and it won’t end badly for them except if it’s by 214A (which serves its own purposes). It’s important to remember, 5A and 2C are +2 on block, while 5B, 2B, and max range 214A are ±0; all of these can be used as pressure reset points and have ways to punish people who try press against you by staggering into other things or in 214A’s case by teleporting back. From farther 2Cs, all you can really threaten with is 236B, which gives up your turn if blocked, but since that cleanly beats people trying to jump out, dash forward, or if done early even backdash, it’s something they always have to be wary of.

Once you’ve forced them to respect your pressure, you have more things to work. Instead of resetting pressure into 2A, you can reset it into j.6[B], throw, etc. From the same ranges where 5B 2C 214A is spaced just right, you can end after the 5B and be in throw range. With meter on deck and from a bit further away, cancelling various things into 22X into fly cancel can give you mixup if you’ve conditioned them to fear 22X into 214C or other gimmicks; 5C into 22C is also quite safe if you want to shed meter or are in max. Instant air dashing with j.AB or j.BC can work too, but hime’s air dash is slow so it’s reactable with shield or in some cases anti-air pokes; still, by mixing up what options you take, you can force them into uncomfortable situations; the startup of jump back pillar looks a whole lot like the startup of jump back airdash, for instance.

In the same manner, if the opponent is committing to blocking while cornered, TK pillar is also an option if you just want to throw it out for more specific advantage when fly cancelled; pillar > flight > pillar gives you options similar to what you get in corner oki, and pillar > flight > j.6[B] can catch people who would challenge the second pillar (it’s even a blockstring if done tight enough). More broadly, any time you feel the opponent isn’t ready for it, you can just fly cancel into pillar for easy mixup - or fly cancel into immediate fastfall low or throw. Whatever they won’t see coming. The advantage you get off of 22X into fly cancel is similar, though it’s a bit more telegraphed and something they’ll often want to jump out of if you haven’t specifically conditioned them with 214C.

And of course, the nicest thing about F-Hime pressure is… If they manage to weather the storm, if they have the discipline to block everything and break the throws, if you push yourself out or if they do manage to jump out… Then you’re just back at neutral - where F-Hime thrives.

Unfortunately for Hime, sometimes the opponent will actually get in on you, and her own unique mechanics combined with her less than stellar attack speed make that kind of a problem. If you’re blocking midscreen, you have more to work with - your backwalk is excellent and they’ll often have to worry about that when trying to do pressure resets, and at the same time you can jump back and j.6[B] the space you were in. But if you’re cornered, either because they hit you and took you into the corner or because you simply got pushed there, things are a lot, a lot worse for you. But, even if that happens, you aren’t without options. Your slow 2A won’t win you many mashing wars, but it will still catch people trying to dash back in after a pressure reset - something you can force to happen before they want with careful use of ex guard. If you can ever use ex guard to make the opponent whiff a normal in their chain, 2A is going to punish that almost every time thanks to its range. Similarly, if you can break a throw attempt against you, you’re at neutral with the opponent, but most likely you’re also in a situation where your 2A can hit and theirs can’t. If they know the matchup, they might press a button anyway to counterhit your extended hurtbox, but even if they know that’s an option it lets you play a minigame with them, which is better than being on strict defense.

But blocking, unfortunately, isn’t always going to get you out, no matter how well you do it. So you’ve gotta threaten with stuff - you’ve gotta get wild. That’s where your DP and your shield counter come in. Shield counter has great reward, and reading your opponent’s offense - or reacting to an charged move or slow mixup option by going into it rather than blocking - will be your cleanest option. Some opponents will periodically bait this, though, either because they just have the read on you or they’re using an attack/jump OS relying on how shieldstop is longer than hitstop or blockstop. There’s just enough time for them to get airborne and block your shield counter, and them air blocking it means you’re a bit minus. But, you can fight against even this - after all, your DP isn’t air blockable. It’s less rewarding than shield counter, but shield into DP can be just the cheeky option you need sometimes, and since shield stop affects them 4 frames more than you, both versions of your DPs will go active before they can get out of jump startup. Against people jumping at you this can be particularly good because their safejump needs to be perfect within 2 frames to beat shield into B DP if they want to block it, when normally safejumping DP or shield counter is fairly trivial and it’s quite common for people to do attack/jump OSes when jumping in (or simply jump cancel their jump-ins for mixup and pressure).

Although your jump is floaty and you’ll never really get punishes by jumping over stuff (except maybe by jumping into 236C, though that’s a great way to die if they block), you can still take pressure reset points into low-hitting attacks as a time to get out by jumping back and possibly super double jumping forward, maybe flying if they couldn’t immediately chase. You don’t really gain advantage here if you were cornered; they’re in a clear position to chase. But it’s a better position than the one you were just in, and you can get back to neutral then that’s your advantage. By the same token, any time someone lets you air tech out of a combo, it’s almost always correct to do so - flying out of means you don’t have to fall into the same setups everyone else does, after all, and even if they have a strong anti-air game it’s still better for you than being on the ground. Just be wary about lower tech spots, where they can rejump and counterhit your flight startup.

There’s one option Hime has that she’s not any slower at than anyone else - and that’s throw. It’s easily baited, and it only works if they’re right next to you, but it hits in 3 frames for you just the same as it does for everybody else - if you watch carefully, you can find opportunities to throw during certain resets, and by doing fuzzy throws to block jump-ins and throw people’s attempts at empty jump low, you have escape methods vs a lot of things. People may catch on to you going for this and try to bait it by staying in the air longer or doing more stuff with low air dashes, but that opens them up to being DP’d, so it’s always something to keep in mind.

Technically, Hime can also backdash out of things… But like many melty blood backdashes, Hime’s is pretty bad, having a total duration of 31 frames. Even if it gets you out of range of something midscreen and they can’t immediately punish, your lack of quick pokes means have pressure on you again. You can play gimmicks with it, but they are very weak gimmicks.

Most likely due to an oversight, hime has a strange quirk where she has a very tall collision box while knocked down, and this makes it so the opponent cannot cross her up when only barely over her. A lot of characters’ basic oki setups don’t work on her because of this, giving her an easier time blocking. However, in all cases there are ways to still cross her up if they change things slightly; sometimes they won’t have quite as many options, but in most cases it’s just a curiosity that strong players have already adapted to. But, if you see their setup looks like it might be an ambiguous sideswitch but it’s done fairly low… if you’re Hime, it’s always same-side.

Alright. You have your opponent knocked down. What do you do? Well, first off, you should refer to this wake-up timing chart. Some people need different delays on some setups. Even if you don’t keep it all in your head, it’s probably worth checking whenever fighting someone you’re not sure about, and especially a quick glance after seeing your opponent’s character at a tourney can’t hurt as a refresher, since Hime has so many ways to knock the opponent down with all three knockdown types:

j.[C], j.236C, Arc Drive, Another Arc Drive, and Last Arc all grant head-first knockdown.
2C grants front knockdown.
Air throw and throw both grant back knockdown.

With the opponent knocked down midscreen you have access to your five-way flight mixup - same side overhead, crossup overhead, same side low, crossup low, landing low. There’s many different ways to set each of these up, but get familiar with your own methods for each. You can even land and rejump instant overhead to really throw them off. There’s a few things worth nothing, though:

j.2[C]/j.3[C] are better ways to land than fastfall when done lower to the ground, because if fastfall isn’t buffered from another action then you will almost certainly get 22A/B upon landing, which is a great way to get hit and lose the match.

2A can be shielded high, which means wakeup standing shield will beat all options except throw if you go for it, so 2B is the normal of choice to establish the threat even though it is slower and easier to see. get comfortable with finding strange ways to go for landing that don’t make it clear that’s what you’re going for, getting as low as you can still do overheads from before you go for your landing normal. Drifting forward j.B can hit even if done very low to the ground (remember that it needs to be input as j.3B to avoid getting j.6B). Once they’ve figured out wakeup shield as an option has poor risk-reward, you can mix in some 2As.

Your meaty overhead options can all be safejumps if timed well. Being on the ground as fast as possible also helps you deal with wakeup backdash and dodge, too; by holding [1] as j.[B] is going active to block DPs and then hitting 2B in time with your expected landing, 2B will combo off the j.[B], catch spot dodge recovery, and hit far enough to tag backdashes. Against characters with roll dodges, if you were deep in them with the j.[B] (and there is no reason not to be) they’ll have gotten behind you by the time you input 2B, so you turn around and hit them.

In the defense section it was mentioned that Hime’s quirky knocked down collision box means some characters have weaker mixup against her, and one of those characters… Is Hime. Because you can’t do a low-to-the-ground crossup against her, there’s really no way to do an ambiguous crossup low, and meaty left/rights basically mean you have to hover higher over her than vs most and cross over then come down with j.2[B] if you still to both be able to do them and safejump 623B. Because of this, there’s very little reason to go for midscreen oki vs Hime, and if you have the option to get a corner knockdown instead you should take it.

Having the opponent cornered means you can’t cross them up, which gives you fewer directions to attack from, but it also means that projectiles don’t push the opponent back, which means you can do your mixup while they’re in blockstun, giving you more ways to go about safely mixing up with those same directions.

After sweeping the opponent and flying, you can drop pillar on their wakeup, and by drifting back before the pillar you can be out of range of meterless reversals and pokes done out of shield. If they get hit by it, you can jump forward into a short air string into air throw or hime kick, while if they block, you have several options.

Float forward j.AB and (if you’re low enough) fastfall 2A can both be done as true blockstrings. Fastfall 2B isn’t a blockstring, but can mess with people trying to standing shield afterward. drift down then drift forward j.B isn’t a blockstring but it can still hit before they can poke and offers an overhead option that can really mess with what the opponent thinks they’re seeing, since straight down movement offers a “fake fastfall” of sorts, turning their reactions against them; drift forward then down j.B gives you a faster overhead > low combination. Air dash j.BC isn’t strictly speaking safe against people mashing out of the pillar, but it offers overheads at different times and interferes with attempts to potentially fuzzy guard some of your overhead into low options. Drifting forward j.A j.[C] throw makes use of the short hitstop on j.A compared to other options to surprise the opponent with how early they can be thrown. And, you can double jump or land and rejump after your low j.B or j.C hits into an f-shiki j.A for one more overhead, going into j.236C.

If they shield the pillar, you are still at advantage, however, you have to recognize the situation and react accordingly. Shielding it still leaves them at -1 compared to you, so there are no guaranteed punishes, and the fastest possible forward drifting j.A you can do hits them on the 5th frame they can act. Since you should be doing shield from outside the range where they can simply jab you, you have advantage against most things they could throw out, and if you believe they’ll read that you can also drift forward with shield and shield counter their poke. j.236C costs meter, but it beats anything they could do except reshield. There are numerous further mindgames that could be at play, but you’re more or less still at advantage, and you always have the option to fastfall dp if you really want to shut them down. Of course, since F and H moons have drastically fewer options out of shield, you’re pretty well off if shielded. You should be able to weave around shield counter fairly easily.

Another option to force them to block is 22A. By cancelling sweep into 22A with good timing, you can have one spark hit them as they get up. This offers all the same options on block, however because you can take actions before they’ve recovered, you have a few more plays to make, including shielding wakeup EX reversals or going for fastfall rejump instant overhead with relative safety, and shielding it becomes a much less attractive option. It does, however, come with some downsides: Since you’re right next to the opponent, meterless reversals through the light are going to hit you if you go for most mixup, and while you can bait them by drifting or with fastfall blocking, that’s not the passive shutdown you get from pillar. It’s also more sensitive to enemy wakeup timing, needing delay against people with longer front knockdown times. And, perhaps most severely, only having one hit, with shorter untech time, means you can’t react to it hitting and go for a combo; you can only really go into j.236C, so without meter on deck they can mostly get out by intentionally getting hit by it and accepting the weak followup. But even with these downsides, the different timing and how it can throw off people used to defending against pillar can make it worth doing sometimes.

And if you’re particularly frustrated by their ability to deal with your corner oki, you can also just go for safejump overheads / landing lows / throws without a cover, the same as you would midscreen, and deny them any chance at a cheeky way out.

Another way you might get corner oki is off of corner throw. After a throw, buffered flight into buffered fastfall puts you at +3 vs characters with the fastest back wakeup times, meaning they need to have a 4 frame jab and better timing than yours to poke out of 2A; in this situation, the fastfall 2A part takes 17 frames to animate, which is very difficult to react to on its own but becomes extra unlikely given the other mixups option here is drifting down overhead, which safejumps 5f reversals from fastest wakeup people and drifting down then forward j.AB. If the threat of faster reversals doesn’t sit well with you, you can also get more conventional oki by doing throw, 2C, fly cancel; of course, they could tech the 2C, but if you didn’t fly cancel the 2C you can get big damage off of a tech trap. And if you walk back slightly before 2C and use 22C, then you can get superior mixup while also catching techs.

Sometimes, often after a far j.236C punish, you won’t be in a situation to really go for flight oki But you can still get pressure by dashing up, and 2C can catch techs pretty well. Because it has 6 active frames, 2C can actually be timed within a 2 frame window to catch forward, back, and neutral tech. If they don’t tech, you get pressure, and if you’re close enough then you can fly cancel and get the same mixup as if you had a sweep or arc drive ender.

There are actually also air tech traps that you can do. If you notice your opponent reducing damage consistently against your corner stuff, you can use that against them by cutting a corner combo short something into pillar that won’t combo into it, and then as you see your opponent neutral or back tech, going for hime kick. Because hime kick is air unblockable, this traps them into a reset, and while it’s shieldable, they’d have to have already shielded the pillar - and if the hime kick super flash is while they’re in tech inv, before the pillar hits them, the exact 2 frame window to shield the pillar could be anywhere in the eight frames after the flash but before the hit, making it fantastically difficult to do so with any kind of consistency.

Of course, they can escape this sort of setup if they delay tech or forward tech, but if done low to the ground the delay tech won’t happen because they’ll have landed and you won’t waste the meter for seeing the non-forward tech and inputting as they invuln’d entirely through the pillar, and forward tech is vulnerable to other setups involving ex pillar, which can hit them during their forward air tech vulnerability period - and if they teched a different way, since you can act after ex pillar if flying and it is quite plus, you can turn a blocked ex pillar into an air throw setup, among other options.

Aside from just benefiting from her incredible shield counter, F-Hime has many ways to take advantage of the fact that she’s an F-Moon character for her neutral play. The use of meter charge to bait the opponent into approaching you has been touched on, but the ability to charge your meter during downtime, to just grab a quick 6.49% when you don’t feel like committing to another action, can’t be understated. Pushing yourself into MAX by meter charging after a throw or other time you’re under no particular threat but also don’t have an overwhelming advantage to press can lead to serious reversals of fortune once you’ve regained all your red health with initiative heat or blood heat - and doing this at neutral can have your opponent panicking to get to you before it’s too late, only to fall right into your waiting hitboxes. Because of this, Hime’s kind of low life can be offset with attentive play as long as you don’t just get rolled over.

Even so, if you aren’t really looking for its specific tools, then being in MAX isn’t something you’ll always want; you get to do up to two EXs in it, but because you’re F-Moon, it drops you to 100% after that, meaning you won’t always get to use your meter as efficiently as possible. Because of that, and in order to stay close to conditions where you can threaten to build into MAX mid-combo to threaten blood heat arc drive, it’s often going to be important to shed meter when you’re nearing MAX. In neutral, 22C is a very non-committal way to do this; The opponent definitely doesn’t want to block it and so will probably take to the sky, giving you chances at working your anti-air game in conditions that make it hard for them to just land arbitrarily. If they do block it, you have free pressure and mixup; for this reason if you can force it while you’re in the mid 200s, such as after throw, it’s a good thing to do. If you already have pressure, you can work 22A/B 214C traps more readily and throw in instant overhead j.6Bs as you please, and there is of course using j.236C for full- screen punishes. Lastly, there is of course Hime Kick, which lets you get superior knockdowns without sacrificing damage; It’s generally best to do that while early in MAX to go into arc drive for the meter drain on top, but if you can’t quite get there then any time you can Hime Kick and still have 100 meter left over you’re in a pretty good position.

When you do get into MAX without comboing the opponent, you might just throw out some 22Cs or whatever to get back to normal metergain, but you have some extra options if you’re willing to part with your meter entirely. You never want it to be how things play out, but if you hit MAX while pressured or being comboed you gain blood heat activate as a defensive tool; it’s hard for most characters to bait it in the same action as baiting your DP, so it’s good. Hime’s heat activate is quite large, so you can also use it in your pressure as an unblockable, which makes them either have to air tech into an unfavorable position or directly take a knockdown into mixup. By the same token, being in MAX lets you confirm arc drive from throw, both as a defensive and an offensive option. But of course, the most flexible option for an F-Moon character in heat is Initiative Heat, and Hime in particular is very adept at using it.

With the exception of j.6[B], anything you can cancel to flight or an EX move you can cancel to IH, under the same conditions. This offers tons of things to do if you find yourself in max and want the lifegain; IH canceling 214A while it’s moving can set up a throw into arc drive, IH canceling 22X as you see the opponent go to punish it lets you block and confirm light hitting them into arc drive, IH canceling 236B after the opponent blocks it lets you just do another one to beat their expected punish, and then (of course) go into arc drive. And if you’re in the middle of a combo and just want to go into arc drive, when you’re too late in MAX, you can IH the move you were going to cancel into arc drive and immediately do arc drive out of it to tack on some lifegain on top.

IH also does something strange for Hime beyond just giving her pressure and confirms, if you IH something in the air, Hime gains a normal character’s gravity until she hits the ground. This has implications. For one, it’s why the instant overhead j.B IH j.AB string works. And if you’re being pressured and really need a way out, then air dashing and IH canceling a whiffed air normal will certainly let you land faster than the opponent expects you to, and if you keep an eye for the ‘reduce’ text popping up, you can hitconfirm any stray pillar hit into initiative heat to instantly hit the ground so that you can go into - you guessed it - arc drive. And speaking of pillar, you can also IH that on block to suddenly be on the ground while they have plenty of blockstun left. The heat background change is obvious enough that an attentive opponent will know to shift their guard low early, but someone who doesn’t know to expect it probably won’t, and even if they do you can go for rejump instant overheads or all manner of other grime.

One might say the sky’s the limit, but let’s be real; this is a character who can sometimes air tech high in the air and go into flight to just hang out so high up there the camera can’t track her anymore. The sky is not a limiting factor for her.

Note: In most cases, if you are early in MAX and your combo won’t kill the opponent and you either have enough hits to guarantee a seal or the opponent is fairly close, it is worth cutting the combo short to go straight into Hime Kick into AAD. The oki is good, the damage won’t ever be bad, and sealing the opponent’s meter is very, very impactful. If you don’t quite have enough hits in the combo to make AAD worthwhile, you might be able to get them by doing 236B canceled into AAD, which will reduce damage but add 3 hits. For more information, see the Arc Drive section.

Because combos involving flight have a constant meter drain during them, the meter generation is listed counting through the last normal before the ender, as this is the number that counts towards pushing you into MAX. The exception to this is if a meterless combo involves flying but ends with you in a standing state, either because you landed and continued while grounded or because you ran out of flight time and hit the ground after the combo at a consistent time.

For the purposes of damage/metergain. combos from undefined “normal starters” are assumed to be from 2A > 2B > 2C > 236A/B > j.[C], while combos from undefined “crossunder starters” are assumed to be from 2A > 5B > 2B > 5C > 6C > 236A > j.[C].

Note: FL in the cancel section denotes that a move is cancelable into Flight.

All of Hime’s air normals, except j.A, are whiff-cancelable to EX moves in addition to their normal cancel options. All of Hime’s air moves, if not canceled and not in Flight, lead to a lengthy tumble animation after them, during which you cannot take actions and are fully vulnerable.

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