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To celebrate Tucson this holiday season, our food writer is putting the spotlight on La Doce. Follow along as we eat tacos and soak up the atmosphere at 12 different joints along iconic South 12th Avenue. Share your favorite taco memories with us on Facebook, Instagram or [email protected]

The more time I spend on 12th Avenue, the more I realize there’s an alphabet of specialties that forms the foundation of a taco vocabulary. It starts, as always, with the ABCs: Asada, Birria, Cabeza. Your taco education begins when you have a platonic ideal of each of these in your head, a unit by which to measure all the other tacos you encounter.

Start with the perfectly marinated and mesquite-grilled asada from Tacos Apson; the succulent and mild, shredded and stewed cabeza at Tacos de Cabeza; and the warmly spiced birria at the food truck Taqueria Lingo Lingo. While many rightfully recommend Rollies’ birria (which we’ll get to in a few days), I’d argue you might not know how Chef Mateo Otero elevates the medium until you are familiar with the best of the classic preparation.

All birria, however, is not created equal: it’s not even created out of the same animal. While many of Tucson’s taquerias (including Rollies) make beef birria, Lingo Lingo uses the traditional goat. You can tell from the extra gamey funkiness, which I typically prefer to cow’s relative mildness.

Looking at Lingo Lingo’s menu, you’ll uncover two other crucial vocabulary terms: quesabirria and vichi (also called bichi, depending on the taqueria). For the uninitiated, quesabirria is birria with the volume cranked up: melted with thick portions of cheese, with the birria consomme for dipping.

Vichi seems to often be the broth from the stewed meats, whether beef, goat or fish. It contains the funkiness the stewing process extracts from obscure cuts of meat, and is often served with cilantro and finely chopped white onions.

Lingo Lingo’s vichi is exactly what you’d want on an unusually cold day in Tucson. The chile and the richness from the meat mingle with warm spices — clove? cinnamon? If it was sweet it could almost be a dessert, but it’s firmly in the umami camp. The unusually buoyant cabbage seems ever-replenishing: each spoonful gets replaced by mild roughage eager to become your next bite. The soup’s light, gamey fattiness complements the wholesome comfort of cozy winter mornings.

To celebrate Tucson this holiday season, our food writer is putting the spotlight on La Doce. Follow along as we eat tacos and soak up the atmosphere at 12 different joints along iconic South 12th Avenue. Share your favorite taco memories with us on Facebook, Instagram or [email protected]

The more time I spend on 12th Avenue, the more I realize there’s an alphabet of specialties that forms the foundation of a taco vocabulary. It starts, as always, with the ABCs: Asada, Birria, Cabeza. Your taco education begins when you have a platonic ideal of each of these in your head, a unit by which to measure all the other tacos you encounter.

Start with the perfectly marinated and mesquite-grilled asada from Tacos Apson; the succulent and mild, shredded and stewed cabeza at Tacos de Cabeza; and the warmly spiced birria at the food truck Taqueria Lingo Lingo. While many rightfully recommend Rollies’ birria (which we’ll get to in a few days), I’d argue you might not know how Chef Mateo Otero elevates the medium until you are familiar with the best of the classic preparation.

All birria, however, is not created equal: it’s not even created out of the same animal. While many of Tucson’s taquerias (including Rollies) make beef birria, Lingo Lingo uses the traditional goat. You can tell from the extra gamey funkiness, which I typically prefer to cow’s relative mildness.

Looking at Lingo Lingo’s menu, you’ll uncover two other crucial vocabulary terms: quesabirria and vichi (also called bichi, depending on the taqueria). For the uninitiated, quesabirria is birria with the volume cranked up: melted with thick portions of cheese, with the birria consomme for dipping.

Vichi seems to often be the broth from the stewed meats, whether beef, goat or fish. It contains the funkiness the stewing process extracts from obscure cuts of meat, and is often served with cilantro and finely chopped white onions.

Lingo Lingo’s vichi is exactly what you’d want on an unusually cold day in Tucson. The chile and the richness from the meat mingle with warm spices — clove? cinnamon? If it was sweet it could almost be a dessert, but it’s firmly in the umami camp. The unusually buoyant cabbage seems ever-replenishing: each spoonful gets replaced by mild roughage eager to become your next bite. The soup’s light, gamey fattiness complements the wholesome comfort of cozy winter mornings.

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To celebrate Tucson this holiday season, our food writer is putting the spotlight on La Doce. Follow along as we eat tacos and soak up the atmosphere at 12 different joints along iconic South 12th Avenue. Share your favorite taco memories with us on Facebook, Instagram or [email protected]

You won’t be able to see Tacos El Cuate de Obregon from the road. Their parking lot will be full and it protects the sheltered seating area from the busy street.

People come to El Cuate on a Sunday morning like church (or right after): a woman wearing a cream-colored blouse with satin leopard spots embraces the waitress. This is one of the first crisp weekends of the winter and in the shade a slight chill feels like a blessing.

A waitress is wearing a quilted puffy coat. Men sit at tables by themselves, wearing collared shirts and baseball caps. When they leave, they’re replaced by families. Elementary-aged girls sit pensively, staring at where the food comes out, glass Coke bottles at their eye level, towering over their small frames.

The cabeza taco comes out on a corn tortilla; the ribeye taco on flour.

The steak has been pounded thin but has not entirely been exorcized of its tougher sinews. Working through the meat, chewing, allows the fattiness and seasoning of the meat to gestate. Put the green salsa on it, from a ketchup-and-mustard squirt bottle. It will compliment the dollop of avocado and add sharpness to the bountiful layers of fat in the steak.

While some might argue that the best tacos in Mexico City are elsewhere (and this may be true), there are also some seriously delicious tacos in these two popular Mexico City neighborhoods.

If you are staying in these areas during your trip to Mexico City, fear not, you can still get some seriously delicious tacos in Roma and Condesa.

If you need a little lesson in what you’re going to find at these taco spots around Mexico City, check out my article Everything You Need to Know About Street Food in Mexico City.

Roma is one of my favorite places to spend time. You’ll get even more recommendations for this neighborhood if you grab a copy of my guidebook in paperback here or a digital copy here. 

It’s where I spend most of my time when I’m looking for a good coffee shop, bar, restaurant, and even a good taco. This is in no particular order, so the first recommendation is just as good as the last.

Insurgentes Sur 253

Orinoco is actually a Northern-style taco place.

It is originally from Monterrey, but they opened this branch in Mexico City over a year ago and it has been crazy popular ever since. Don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line on the steps outside in order to place your order and grab a table. I promise it’s worth the wait.

They only serve three types of tacos: trompo (which is basically the Northern Mexico version of Pastor), arrachera (delicious steak), and chicharron (fried pig’s skin with a little bit of meat on it). I am a huge fan of pastor from Mexico City, so the trompo here isn’t my favorite, but the other two types of tacos are utterly delicious.

I also really like their larger dishes like the pirata. This is kind of like a gringa with a large tortilla folded over and filled with steak and cheese. If I’m feeling really hungry, this is what I’ll order. The smashed potatoes (papas) are also seriously good. 

Avenida Alvaro Obregon 90

After nearly three years of trying different tacos al pastor around Mexico City, this humble taco place remains one of my absolute favorite places to have it.

It’s a popular late-night spot since most days of the week it’s open well into the early morning (5am on the weekends!). The tacos aren’t just good because you’ve had a few too many beers, though, I promise.

Besides the classic pastor tacos, I also love the envueltos.

Choose what type of meat you’d like and then it’s cooked up on the flat top and wrapped in cheese that is also melted to perfection on the flat top. It’s served with two flour tortillas. 

Avenida Alvaro Obregon 176

This is a chain around Mexico City, but the Roma Norte location on Alvaro Obregon is one of my favorites. They have nice outdoor seating and the food is always really delicious here. Again, a great spot for pastor tacos, but I also really love their steak tacos (bistec).

The star of the show has to be the jugo de carne. It’s a soup packed with meat flavor and pieces of meat. Order a side of tortillas to dip in it.

Avenida Alvaro Obregon 122

This is a great spot for all different types of tacos. There are two locations on Alvaro Obregon, but I much prefer the location on the corner of Calle Frontera. The pastor is good, but I really love the bistec alambre.

Alambres are plates of meat that have been cooked with onions, peppers, and usually bacon or ham. They serve you it with a big side of tortillas so that you can make your own tacos. 

Puebla 366

This is a seriously great street stall serving up some of the city’s very best pastor tacos. For only 10 Pesos, you can dig into pastor, bistec, chorizo, or campechano.

The real reason that people come back again and again though, is the lengua (beef tongue). 

If you’ve never had beef tongue tacos, don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it as they say.

They are a breath-taking 25 Pesos each, but you only need one or two because the meat is so rich. It’s tender and soft and topped with some salsas and cebollas, you’ll be in taco tongue heaven.

Avenida Alvaro Obregon 206

Ok, very generic, but there is a cluster of street stalls along Alvaro Obregon right on the corner with Insurgentes. The one that I’m referring to is the one that is closest to Insurgentes and if you are looking at Insurgentes, this one is on your left side. 

This is the best street stall for pastor tacos and gringas in all of Roma Norte. Order one or both of these things and top is with their salsas and you’ll be happy as can be.

Bazar el Oro, Fuente de Cibeles

Taco Mio is located inside the Tianguis which is in Plaza de Oro in Roma Norte. It may be easier to head to Fuente de Cibeles in Roma Norte and then you’ll see the tents. The market is only on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Walk into the entrance to the right as you are looking at it and walk until you hit all of the restaurants. Look for the neon sign that says Taco Mio and then immediately find a seat.

There are a few things on the menu, but really the only reason to come here for the mixiote tacos (mee-chee-oh-tay). I usually eat three and I’m full and then I order one more because they are so delicious and I have no self-discipline. There are a few toppings on the table, but my personal favorites are the habanero onions (you only need a few, it’s SPICY!) and the dark smoky red sauce.

Campeche 106

If you want to have carnitas in a sit-down restaurant, this is a really great spot. It’s perfect for a group of three or more because you can get meat by the kilo and it comes with gorditas, avocado, chicharron, beans, and plenty of tortillas. It also usually includes soft drinks, but not beers. 

I also recommend their barbacoa. If you just want to try a few different things, order a few carnitas tacos and a few barbacoa tacos. You’ll be full of rich meat all day long (and you may need to have a nap afterward).

Mercado Medellin, Campeche 101

I only recently learned about this place. It’s located inside Mercado Medellin and serves up some seriously delicious carnitas tacos.

Order the maciza if you just want to have white meat (and a bit of dark meat).

Opt for surtido tacos if you want allllll of the different bits, you know what I’m saying? Be sure to also order a side of their chicharron. It’s some of the best I’ve had in the entire city.

For the street stall: Corner of Manzanillo and Calle Chiapas

For the restaurant: Coahuila 169

Want to try some vegan tacos?

Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian, or meat-loving, you will enjoy these tacos.

I recently visited with a friend who is vegetarian and we ordered a bunch of the tacos.

My personal favorites were the red chorizo and the green chorizo. Obviously, there is not meat in the taco, but you would never be able to tell.

They also have simple things like grilled mushrooms and nopales (cactus). They have beans made without any pig fat (difficult to find in Mexico City), grilled potatoes without mayo on top, and tons of other delicious toppings all completely vegan.

Check out this article for other vegan restaurants around Mexico City.

Monterrey 333

My boyfriend always teases me about Los Parados because the tacos are so good, but I hate the system they have.

You go to the counter and order your tacos. There are tacos from the grill, pastor tacos, and beef pastor tacos.

Once you pay, you get a receipt. You then take that receipt to all of the different people in order to get your taco, but there’s only one receipt, so you have to wait for the first guy to finish with your order before you can take the receipt to the next guy. It’s all a bit silly in my opinion.

That being said, it is worth the small hassle.

The tacos, particularly the beef pastor tacos are outrageously good and totally different to anything I’ve had before. It’s very busy late night, but if you come for dinner around 7 or 8 it’s not actually that busy. 

Campeche 155

This is perhaps the most famous place in the entire city to come for barbacoa. They are only open Friday-Sunday and once they run out of meat they close (although I’ve never seen them run out of meat and I’ve come close to closing time in the past).

It’s all about the barbacoa, slow roasted sheep (or goat?) in maguey leaves. When you enter the restaurant you’ll be hit by the smell and your mouth will start watering. Near the bar, you can see the big bin full of meat. Order it by weight, for two half a kilo is usually more than enough. It’s served with tortillas, onions, cilantro, and plenty of salsa options.

Although it’s much more of a restaurant than the other places on this list, they only take cash here, so come prepared.

Condesa gets a bad reputation for being too snooty or not having “proper” Mexican food. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, you can get good Japanese and Italian and Israeli food here, but you can also get some seriously good tacos.

Amsterdam 135

Tacos Hola is a Condesa institution.

It’s busiest in the late morning for breakfast when people come for a few guisado tacos.

Guisado is basically a type of stew, but it can be anything. This place is vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free-friendly, but they also have delicious stewed meat dishes, too. I particularly love their cauliflower taco and their huitlacoche (corn fungus).

Avenida Michoacan 54

For some of the best tacos arabe, you can’t miss a meal at El Greco.

It’s a tiny little place, so you may have to wait a few minutes for a seat. Alternatively, you can take it to go and bring it into the nearby Parque Mexico and enjoy tacos on a park bench. The Donerakay tacos with pan arabe are what you should order (in my humble opinion). 

They’ll slice the meat off of the shwarma-style spit outside and put it into a nice thick pita-like tortilla. The salsas here are notoriously ferocious, you’ve been warned!

Altata 19

This is one of my current favorite spots for tacos al pastor in Condesa. The meat here is particularly well seasoned and is so juicy. They top it with a huge piece of pineapple and you can choose from a huge range of salsas.

They also have what they call Farolazos, which are kind of like burritos. You choose what meat you want to have inside and it’s then also filled with cheese, guacamole, and refried beans. It’s served with a side of grilled onions and it’s one of my favorite late-night eats. 

Avenida Tamaulipas 122

This is a famous spot all over Mexico City and the location along Tamaulipas claims to be the first place to ever serve tacos al pastor.

Whether this is true or not, the pastor is wildly delicious here.

They are one of few places in Mexico City still using charcoal fire and the way that this cooks the meat makes the outside a little bit charred and the inside perfectly juicy.

When you order food here, you get a tray of dips and a plate of chips. I live for their hot and spicy bean dip.

It’s one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten. I’ve tried to get the waiter to tell me what’s in it, he either doesn’t know or keeps a good secret. 

Ensenada 74

Condesa is full of great bars and clubs, so it makes sense that it is also home to some of the best late-night taco spots.

Most of the places that I’ve mentioned above are open way past midnight, and Kaliman is perhaps one of my favorites after a night of fun. It’s open most nights until 2am and until 4am on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. 

I’ve tried several things on their menu and enjoyed them all: the pastor tacos, the pastor alamabre, the arrachera alambre, the bistec tacos, and even the flan is good. 

This is another chain around Mexico City, but I do love their location in Condesa second best (my favorite location is in the Centro Historico but only because there’s more space).

The regular fish tacos are good, but the marlin and the shrimp (camaron) are seriously why I keep come back.

I usually get one marlin taco and one shrimp, but if I’m feeling fancy I’ll order one marlin and one campechano which is a combination of a few pieces of fish and a few pieces of shrimp.

It’s delicious.

They also have a few options that don’t include fish (stuffed chilis and cheese options, mostly). 

When you walk into the restaurant, someone will take your drink order while you wait in line.

They’ll place your drinks at a table for you.

Then you order what you want to eat and you get a little piece of paper. If you want more tacos, skip the line and just go straight back to the front with your piece of paper. Then just hand that paper to the guy at the register when you’re ready to pay. 

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